Half crimp hangboard. I had to take a deep breath and .
Half crimp hangboard It is for 10 minute sequences if you are looking for a good place to start or only have 10 minutes to train! Entry Level Hangboard Workout 1st minute: 15-second hang on Jug I'm in a similar situation: 153% on 20mm edge in open crimp position and 119% in the half crimp. Higher risk than drag positions. Sep 21, 2023 · Train with both the half crimp and open crimp grips. Oct 15, 2021 · The half crimp is an open-handed grip where the thumb doesn't overlock onto the index finger, while the full crimp does overlock the thumb. Your drawing #2 is also not what I use. Jan 11, 2024 · A typical finger strength testing method is to perform seven or eight reps of increasingly heavier seven-second deadhangs on a hangboard hold of your choice (e. Remember when to start hangboarding, and the routines themselves are highly individual. You’ll learn when to use half crimp versus open hand, how to adjust intensity without ruining the stimulus, and why your skin condition matters more than your motivation. Going from 6 to 9 apparently is aggravating on your fingers. It's likely the hangboard I used partially explains this difference, my skin kinda gets trapped on the rounded edge and gives me loads of friction. Oct 15, 2021 · To safely practice the half crimp grip, use a hangboard (also called a fingerboard), a practice tool commonly found in indoor climbing gyms. Aug 12, 2020 · Discover a hangboard routine meant to properly warm you up and build your strength, while preparing you to climb later that same day. In this program climbers will use 3-4 hold positions (openhand, half crimp, full crimp) and perform 3-5 sets at each position. Something to take into account though in addition to the added stress on your fingers, half or full crimping a hold also gets you more pumped which can really suck on longer routes. Oct 5, 2022 · A climbing coach shares a beginner-friendly 8-week hangboard training plan along with some crucial tips for how to avoid injury. Apr 7, 2024 · That's why it may be a good idea to train it separately in the half crimp. For most climbe May 10, 2022 · Most climbers would be well-advised to give the half-crimp a high level of priority in their training (meaning that you’ll use it the most on the hangboard and when climbing). I've been trying to research this topic but it's very hard to find anything out there about Feb 9, 2020 · There are different schools of thought on whether to use an open-hand, half-crimp, or full-crimp position on small edges. Open-hand training will also strengthen your fingers for half- and full-crimp positions. Aug 25, 2019 · I stayed away from anything full crimp for a while and mainly worked open hand and non-aggravating half crimp climbs. The Training Program: Half Crimp on 14-millimetre edge: 3 sets of 10 seconds on May 1, 2024 · Crimp Climbing 101 covers the essential techniques and training tips for using crimps. When you have just started hangboarding, ALWAYS go for either an open hand grip or half crimp grip. Keep your shoulders engaged during dead hangs. An open-hand crimp puts less strain on your finger tendons, and is therefore less likely to injure you. 2. This has worked for me. Each set includes 10 seconds of hanging followed by 20 seconds of rest. These hand positions avoid the full crimp, which positions the knuckles above the fingertips and Nov 19, 2025 · A crimp in rock climbing is a type of climbing hold that will only fit your finger pads. Yes, your lack of crimping (full or half) is keeping you from developing strength to hold small holds. Understand What You’re Really Training When you train on a rock climbing hangboard The super classic half crimp (drawing 1; thumb wherever) feels extremely non ergonomic to me. There are three different crimp grips, the open hand grip, half crimp and full crimp grip. Three finger drag 3. For most climbers, this is the top grip to train, as it builds finger strength, which translates to the broadest range of holds. Half Crimp: 2 sets, 2 reps, 10 second hold, 18mm edge, + increased weight, or new smaller edge size 14 *if you feel like you are going to fail before 10 seconds you can reduce the weight in order to reach 10 seconds between each repetition 14. If your half crimp is your weaker grip I'd say definitely train it on the hangboard, having more even numbers across grip types will likely mean less injury when you are climbing. Robustness of physical structures in hand/forearm 3. Plus, new hangboard workouts & the best hangboard workouts for beginners. Sep 19, 2022 · Hangboard training should actually be a relatively calm, controlled experience, usually with a half crimp, though exact finger position will depend on your finger anatomy and goals. The full crimp is most prone to injury and hence not often trained by any climber. Sets/reps can be flexible, but I'd recommend 2 or 3 grips - like open hand, half crimp, and 3 finger drag - and holds that are a bit too small for you to actually hang from. I did 3 sets of 3 finger open crimp on a 24mm edge, 3 sets of half crimp on an 18mm edge, 2 sets of middle two fingers on a 24mm edge, one set of first two fingers on an 18mm edge, and finally one set of middle two fingers on an 18mm edge. Jun 10, 2020 · The open handed grip and the half crimp grip are safest to use on a hangboard. Feb 11, 2021 · The Conditions: This method is to be completed every day, twice a day. Sep 18, 2024 · When hangboarding, it’s recommended most climbers use an open-handed or half-crimp hand position. Jun 22, 2014 · Kris shares his thoughts on the Transgression Hangboard by Eva Lopez, which comes with instructions for suggested use and training protocols. Front 3 drag: Good for catching holds and using pockets. Try a set of hangboarding repeaters where you consciously dead hang without full crimping. With this hangboard all your fingers to be in the same half crimp position, so that every finger will be loaded evenly. Whether you love or hate climbing crimps, mastering them is key. Each set will consist of a 3 second hold followed by a 6 second hold followed by a 9 second hold with as long of a rest as needed between. When you do dead-hangs in full-crimp, half-crimp, and open-hand positions, you will increase strength in about 20 degrees of joint flexion in either direction from the grip you choose. Usually this is a slightly lower risk grip position to train. Aug 28, 2024 · Full-crimp: Grip position that mimics the half-crimp but goes one step further to where the climber hyper-extends the DIP joint (the joint closest to the fingertip). See full list on gripped. Jun 28, 2023 · You’ll strap weight to your body via weights hanging from your harness, and hang for five seconds from the 10 millimeter edge on a hangboard in a half-crimp grip (i. So now I’m hanging in half-crump But all of this is kinda moot point. I did the above 2 things for about a month or two, then I slowly started working in some full crimp climbs. Jul 31, 2023 · This can include hanging on something easy to hold, or lightly stretching out your forearms. I've been hangboarding for years now and mostly train with half-crimp and three-finger open. By modifying traditional crimp grip techniques, climbers can build resilience and reduce the risk of tendon strain during intense climbing sessions. Sep 4, 2025 · Here, the half crimp and full crimp will typically result in the highest performances. Dec 21, 2022 · Half crimp: 5 sets of 3-6-9 Week 4 (x2) Open hand: 3 sets of 3-6-9-12 Full crimp: 3 sets of 3-6-9-12 Half crimp: 3 sets of 3-6-9-12 Hangboard Ladders: A Few Rules The goal of this program is to build strength over a variety of hang times while maintaining a very low risk of injury. Sep 4, 2025 · If you’re unsure of exactly how you can adjust and manipulate factors like these to your advantage, check out Part 1. Transfer to real rock The three grip positions: 1. , no thumb lock!). The full crimp is a stronger hold but is more likely to sustain finger injuries. I used to be weak in open hand hangs, but after multiple rounds of hangboard I was stronger in open hand drag than in half crimp. g. I had to take a deep breath and Mar 20, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Sep 27, 2024 · Learn how to improve your crimping technique, a crucial skill for boulders. The hyperextension at the dip is something I avoid when hangboarding. It seems like most good climbers I see get more power from half crimp and full crimp. half crimp). com📱720-316-9974- Our 3-step process to your recovery We use a personalized 1:1 approach to 1. The goal is to determine the max amount of weight that you can add to your hang. Your numbers are a dramatic reduction in weight by mm hangboard size and definitely outside the norm. I think it's definitely worth training your half crimp strength to bring it up to the same level as your full crimp. More importantly, you shouldn’t be sliding off the hold during every hang as this changes the force on your fingers. 20mm edge) using a specific grip type (e. The biggest reason for this is that it is the hand position that many climbers believe to be the safest for training. Sep 22, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 100%. To summarize, the importance of using the strict half crimp form while Arm-Lifting and hangboarding is still debatable. For an intermediate and even an advanced climber, this ability to execute a single quality hangboard workout each time matters less than the overall quality and compliance of the training week or month on the whole. Keep a margin for 1–3 seconds for each hang, so that you’re able to maintain good grip and body posture throughout the whole hang, and so you can put your feet back on the ground while still in control after 10 seconds. I kept doing light finger rolls (40-50 rep range) and if I did hangboard it was only open hand. Whenever I try hangboarding half crimp my pinky finger eventually gives up and turns it into open hand. It's also outside the norm to be open hand training on hangboard exclusively and especially max weight open hand training. Nov 9, 2022 · Half crimp: This is best ‘all rounder’ for training strength as it is arguably more transferrable than other positions. Advanced climbers can do a second set for each half- and open-crimp grips, plus one or two additional sets that target one- and/or two-finger pockets. com Nov 17, 2025 · 7. Dead-hangs is when you are hanging off certain holds without pulling up or down – essentially, it is a dead-hang from small holds. Ideal User: Beginner to Intermediate Climbers This board is made for climbers who already have a year or two of consistent climbing under their belt. 3. Hangboard sessions are to be separated by at least 6 hours. the At home training plan for bouldering strength from Louis Parkinson (I made a video about that on my YT channel if you are interested), Lattice Training, Andrew McFarlane or Shauna Coxsey. Many sources don't pay significant attention to the position of the index finger, while others claim that it's critical for your progress. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. You are unique, and your body will guide you. Apr 28, 2020 · The most important way to start is by working from a half-crimp that engages your fingers. When performing your hangboard routine, try to practice the half crimp. Oct 26, 2021 · 5. When I first started rock climbing, everything seemed so intimidating. Huge difference in endurance as well. I am of the opinion that you should train in a grip position that is specific to how you grip holds on the wall, or at least your hangboard training should be specific to your goals. My own grip is like #1 in terms of a flat line from edge to dip to pip parallel to the edge. The progressive loading of the fingers creates a molecular response. May 18, 2022 · Use the half crimp and do the following: hang for 10 seconds, rest for 3 minutes, and do five hangs in total. Though it is unclear whether or not this actually the safest grip position, it is Half crimp on hangboard, tucking thumb in Ive noticed when hangboarding and using half crimp that I usually tuck my thumb towards my palm which feels much better and that I have slightly more power vs keeping my thumb straight up. Anyway I got a lattice hangboard training plan and they took a really good look at my metrics, as well as my Aug 20, 2019 · Half the battle is picking the right target, the other half is hitting it. I think the best way to get better at half crimp is probably a combination of training it in the hangboard and consciously forcing yourself to half crimp Sep 4, 2025 · If you’re unsure of exactly how you can adjust and manipulate factors like these to your advantage, check out Part 1. From the three types of crimps, when to use them, and how to improve your crimp strength. (Photo Jordan Hirro) Half-crimp. Grips Half crimp. Specificity 2. This will be done for six sets. Half Crimp: Start with the half crimp position (fingers at 90 degrees). 5. In regards to safety You said you're doing this with hangboard: All with an additional +N pounds, on a 20mm edge 2x three finger drag 2x crimp with dragged index and pinky 2x crimp with dragged pinky 2x half crimp So that's 8 total sets. Dec 3, 2020 · Ladders Ladders are not too dissimilar to the repeater hangboard program. When you see climbers on a hangboard, it is not uncommon for them to spend a majority of their time hanging in this grip position. Crimping ain’t easy. Follow these guidelines to maximize your training. Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury. Jan 31, 2022 · Half crimp training alone cannot fully prepare you to crimp with all your might on a tiny edge. The most open position—often referred to as a “drag”—is extremely useful for resting on large positive holds where the high contact surface with the hold allows for frictional assistance. This article breaks down proven methods like 5-second max-load hangs, intermittent repeaters, and reduced-intensity endurance sets. All hangs are to be completed as no-hangs: no hangs are the same as dead hangs except your feet remain on the floor. Going to the gym by myself and being surrounded by incredible climbers left and right. If the hold is too big and your fingers aren’t getting worked, then that ruins the whole point of training on a hangboard. Limit yourself to a maximum of six sets. Now that you’re ready to get into some hangboard training, let’s look at the three main types of hangboard training methodologies: max hangs, repeaters, and long duration hangs. Load I believe Aidan Roberts is somewhat similar in that he is fairly weak on a hangboard in half crimp, but very strong with a flexed pinky. It’ll likely take a few rounds to pinpoint your limit. Initially, focus on training the half-crimp and open-crimp grips—one set each. Three Finger Drag: After the half crimp, transition to the three-finger Jan 19, 2021 · Four-fingers Half-crimp This is the most popular hand position. Half-Crimp Training to Prevent Injuries Half-crimp training represents a strategic approach to developing finger strength while minimizing potential climbing related injuries. But still good post, thanks. Training on a hangboard is a very static load and environment, so if done with proper form (and adequate warm up) really it is safer than climbing where you're moving dynamically between holds. Hang/open/drag. | Download free 3D printable STL models Thanks a lot for sharing! Good content. Bend the index, middle and ring fingers at 90 degrees, keep your little finger straight, and rest your thumb next to the index finger. The strongest position for most of us, you should use an edge that allows you to hold the PIP and DIP joints at approximately the same level. 1. I'd say if it doesn't affect him too much it probably doesn't matter for us mortals. If you’re training finger strength (hangboard), always train open hand just to avoid injury and because it’s the one you and most people are worse at. e. Four finger half crimp 2. I did the hangboarding on three edge sizes and a variety of grip types. Especially strong climbers can also perform a hang or two using the three-finger drag and two-finger pocket grips. Don’t get Aug 28, 2022 · Everything you need to know about hangboarding, beginner-advanced. Mar 28, 2024 · Improve your hangboard workout effectiveness by following these tips on how to tune your routine for maximum results. . Some grip types are more “active” than others. The half crimp grip is the number one grip position in terms of strength transfer to all other grips and climbing performance. Aug 24, 2023 · Use the same drag position or half crimp but with your middle and ring finger Hang for 8-10 seconds Repeat for 2 sets Metolius Hangboard Workout This is a workout from Metolius. Questions? Contact us at ️info@physioroomco. Back 3 half crimp: Good for those with weaker pinky fingers. I don't use it on a hangboard. Full crimping is a much more active gripping style than half crimping. As sennzz pointed out already, a lot of coaches/coaching platforms propose to use half crimp e. It also supports different grip types: open hand, half crimp, and closed crimp (though you should be cautious using closed crimps on any hangboard). Relieve your pain Jan 25, 2021 · Some people are stronger in open-hand, some are stronger in half-crimp.